SHOULD YOU BE PANICKING OVER GEL NAIL POLISH?

We cut through the noise and explain what’s what 

As most people know by now, on September 1, 2025 the European Union banned the sale and use of gel nail polishes containing trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide (TPO), which it classified as “carcinogenic, mutagenic, or toxic for reproduction”. Take note: not all gel polishes are banned, just those containing TPO — and the move has forced manufacturers to reformulate their products without this contentious ingredient, which is a good thing.

It’s also important to state that the EU ban is precautionary and solely based on the results of animal studies, which showed reproductive toxicity in high-dose exposures. The United States has not yet followed suit with prohibiting the use of TPO. 

What is TPO, exactly? 

TPO is a photoinitiator — a chemical that helps gel polish harden when exposed to UV or LED light. It has been a revolutionary advancement in the beauty salon world because of its durability, making the nail polish more glossy, chip-resistant, and longer-lasting. Every woman’s dream, right? But every up side has its down side.  

What you should be concerned about 

1. UV/light exposure

Gel manicures require curing under UV or LED lamps, which emit UVA rays (the longer-wave ultraviolet light). UVA contributes to skin ageing, and may also increase skin cancer risk. While the exposure received via these light sources is lower than say, a tanning bed — and while LEDs are considered a safer alternative to UV — repeated sessions can have a cumulative effect.  

2. Chemical and allergy hazards

In addition to the improper application or removal of gels having the potential to weaken, peel, or crack the natural nail plate (the hard part of your nail), acrylates and methacrylates — compounds known for causing contact dermatitis or allergic sensitisation— are often found in gel formulas. Acrylate allergies can actually result in an inability to use certain medical adhesives or joint-related materials later in life, limiting the possibility of having certain key medical procedures. TPO itself commonly causes localised skin irritations.

3. Mechanical and removal damage

The method of applying and removing gel polish can be as harmful as the polish itself. Nail technicians commonly buff or file the nail surface before applying the gel, thinning the nail plate in the process. In order to remove the gel, nails must be chemically softened, usually by soaking them in acetone — but peeling or forcibly lifting the polish can cause chips, fissures, and weakening of the nail. Over time, this can lead to thin, brittle, unhealthy nails. 

Naturally, nail technicians are potentially at a higher risk for adverse health effects over time, thanks to repeated exposure to chemicals, dust, vapours, etc.   

Explore the alternatives 

The EU’s ban could be a sign to reevaluate your nail care habits. There are many beautiful alternatives to nail gels. Though less long-lasting, regular nail polish is easier to remove, and has fewer harsh chemicals, which is a decent trade-off. 

Gel-effect or “no-light” polishes mimic the glossy finish of gels without needing a curing lamp. Though not completely risk-free, dip powder nails are achieved via a powder and cure system that omits use of certain photoinitiators. Press-on nails are great for temporary wear, and builder-in-a-bottle gel overlays can achieve the hard gel effect, with more low-risk ingredients compared to full gel colour systems.  

How to be safer

1. Protect yourself 

An easy first step is to limit the frequency with which you get nail treatments, or reconsider the type of treatment you have. If you insist on gels, be sure to apply a broad-spectrum SPF (≥ 30) to your hands and/or use UV-protective fingerless gloves to act as a shield during the curing process. 

2. Check your ingredients 

Become a label reader and do your research — choose gels that are TPO-free, or use alternative photoinitiators.

3. Avoid aggressive prepping/removal  

Tell your manicurist to skip the heavy buffing before applying the gel. For removal, we strongly advise against forcing off the polish. If tools must be used, make sure they are made of plastic or wood rather than metal. 

4. Pamper yourself 

Moisturise and nourish your nails by using replenishing cuticle oils and hydrating hand creams. You can also consider applying just a nourishing, protein-rich base between polishes.  

5. Be observant
If you notice any type of adverse effects, including redness, itching, or nail thinning, call your dermatologist — it’s likely a case of allergic sensitisation.

As dermatologists, we are swayed only by science and therefore encourage prudence and informed consumer choices — so if you continue to use gel nails, please take our recommended safety precautions seriously.