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Elements

CELEBRATE OUR 100th ISSUE & WIN BIG!

Janine Mendes-Franco

Submit your biggest skin question for the chance to WIN a FREE facial!

Here’s how:

Share your question to your story anytime between now and March 31, 2026

Not only will we answer the question that most speaks to us, but you could walk away with the ultimate skin reset — a glow-boosting facial, absolutely FREE!

WHAT WE SEE AS THE FUTURE OF SKINCARE

Janine Mendes-Franco

Over the past 100 issues, we’ve dismantled myths, elevated understanding, and navigated dermatological and aesthetic trends — but the future of skin health is about anticipating what’s next — so here’s where we see dermatology heading, and what it means for you and your skin.

1. Regenerative treatments

The future of aesthetics lies in stimulating the skin’s own biology — not just adding volume or masking lines. Therapies like exosomes, biostimulatory injectables, and advanced collagen-triggering treatments are anticipated to become mainstream, as they focus on quality of tissue, as opposed to artificial fullness.

Think prejuvenation over rejuvenation — preventative, early-intervention approaches that protect tissue and delays ageing rather than reverses it.

2. Digital dermatology 

Digital and advanced imaging tools are transforming consultations and making skin analysis even more data-driven, individualised, and predictive. AI tools will be able to help us tailor treatments based on things like pigment behaviour and ageing patterns, making dermatology even more personalised.

When you think of wearables, for instance, your Apple Watch or fitness tracker probably comes to mind, but dermatology takes it a step further with the continuous monitoring of skin-related data. Think UV exposure trackers that measure sun exposure or patches that detect inflammation and deliver medication in eczema or acne-prone skin. We also see teledermatology and remote monitoring becoming way more popular, as it can allow for quicker screenings and faster turnaround times. 

3. Personalised skin health

We have always prioritised skin function, resilience, and longevity over quick fixes and surface beauty that doesn’t extend to the skin’s deepest layers. Approaches like LED therapy, microbiome-focused skincare, and barrier-strengthening regimens reflect a shift toward the comprehensive skin health we’ve always advocated for.

4. Non-invasive, combo treatments 

Minimal downtime, visible results, and safety — these are the hallmarks of the next phase of dermatology. Treatments like radiofrequency microneedling, ultrasound tightening, and stacked protocols, where multiple modalities work synergistically, are becoming more in demand — and for good reason. Convenience and effectiveness is a combination that can’t be beat! 

5. Skincare going hand in hand with wellness

With the launch of The Greenhouse at Serpentine, we’re well ahead of the game here, because there’s a definite trend towards wellness in maintaining optimum skin health. Calm, restorative, holistic approaches that recognise how much stress and environment shape skin outcomes can do wonders in achieving more resilient skin.

6. Inclusivity and diversity

When it comes to aesthetics, we see the next phase evolving to embrace all skin types, tones, textures, and goals. This is great news for us in the Caribbean, where our skin is melanin-rich. We hope the days of darker skin hues having to avoid certain treatments will soon be gone!

7. Sustainability meets science

As consumer values evolve, especially in light of the current climate crisis which exponentially affects regions like ours, we anticipate the continued growth of eco-conscious formulations and ethical practice, whereby products are effective, safe, and responsibly produced — and if that’s where the future of skincare is headed, we can’t wait! 

OUR TOP 10 SKINCARE LESSONS FROM 100 ISSUES

Janine Mendes-Franco

A hundred issues ago, our “Elements” newsletter began with a simple goal: offer clear, practical, scientifically supported skincare advice to empower our patients to understand their skin and advocate for themselves. 

Since 2017 — nearly 10 years ago now! — trends have exploded and ingredients have gone viral, but after 100 issues, some sage advice rises above the noise.

Here are the Top 10 truths about healthy skin that have stood the test of time.

1. Sunscreen is critical 

Daily ultraviolet exposure, especially in a tropical climate like the Caribbean, causes pigmentation and premature ageing, and increases skin cancer risk. No matter what skin type you have, even incidental sun exposure — driving, walking, sitting by a window — accumulates. So much damage can be avoided by simply taking the time to apply a broad spectrum sunscreen every day, with 30+ SPF at the bare minimum, whether or not you are outdoors. 

Consistency is the key, and we have a wide range of super-effective sunscreens that protect skin without feeling heavy:     

  • Apply 2 finger lengths to the face and neck area 

  • Apply 1 ounce over the rest of your body 

  • Reapply every 2 hours, even if its water resistant

2. The barrier is everything

When your skin’s barrier is compromised, it’s as if the protective wall of the fortress has been broken down. Even seemingly mild skin issues — acne, eczema, hyperpigmentation — become heightened. 

Your first instinct when dealing with challenging skin conditions is to do whatever it takes to make it disappear, but exfoliation — whether chemical or physical — can be overused; most skin needs much less than it’s probably getting.

The good news is that the barrier can be be restored over time with a combination of gentle cleansing and moisturising, with a sprinkling of actives and the use of lasers

3. More stuff doesn’t mean better skin

There’s wisdom in “less is more”; most skin responds better to simple but effective routines using a few trusted products. 

Without a guided strategy that you’ve discussed with your dermatologist, layering products like acids, retinoids, exfoliants, and actives can cause irritation, disrupt the skin’s barrier, and even bring on post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation — especially in melanin-rich skin. Your skin isn’t impressed by complexity; it responds to balance.

Talk to your dermatologist about the best combination of products to bring out the best in your skin.

4. “Natural” isn’t necessarily safer 

Educate yourself and understand what labels mean. While botanical ingredients, for instance, can be beneficial, they can also be irritating, allergenic, or even phototoxic. Ingredients matter, but formulation matters more: 5% niacinamide in a well-designed and clinically tested product, for instance, behaves differently from niacinamide thrown into a trendy serum.

Dermatology is not anti-nature; it’s pro-evidence — so the source of an ingredient matters less than how it behaves on human skin. It’s why we trust the products we recommend, and why we make those recommendations based on every patient’s unique skin type and condition.

5. Not everything is instant

Some skin conditions — like acne or hyperpigmentation — are tough and stubborn; treating them requires precision and yes, time. While it can be really hard to live with your skin while it’s going through the healing process, patience is your friend. 

The dark marks left behind from acne, shaving, inflammation, sun exposure, or pigmentation in darker skin tones often requires:

  • Strict photoprotection

  • Targeted topical therapy and 

  • Avoidance of unnecessary irritation

Real change takes weeks, sometimes months. If it works overnight, it’s probably not progress; rather, it can contribute to barrier damage. Bottom line? There are no overnight solutions, but there are predictable, evidence-based pathways.

6. Trends change; skin biology does not

Every month, there’s some new skin trend on on SkinTok, even though the physiology of the epidermis remains the same. 

The core principles we’ve been preaching for the last 100 issues of our newsletter — sun protection, gentle cleansing, appropriate moisturising — have remained foundational. So the next time you think about ice rolling or using animal fat as a moisturiser, remember that trends may be fun, but they rarely replace fundamentals.

7. Caribbean climate matters

One of the reasons we first decided to do this newsletter is that there was a real absence of available advice for Caribbean skin. Skincare approaches that work in temperate environments do not always translate to humid climates like ours, where heat, sweat, friction, environmental factors and UV intensity affect how skin conditions manifest themselves, e.g.: 

Dermatology is definitely not one-size-fits-all; where we live shapes how our skin behaves. 

8. Prevention is better than cure 

It is easier to prevent pigmentation than to erase it, simpler to protect collagen than to rebuild it, and less challenging to maintain barrier function than to repair it. 

Preventive care — like being vigilant about sunscreen — may feel less dramatic, but it’s definitely more impactful in the long term.

9. Skin reflects systems 

Dermatology is not isolated from overall health. In fact, the skin is often the first place that symptoms of disease show up. Skin health is inextricably linked to other things, including hormones, stress, sleep quality and nutrition.

If you want glowing skin, you’ve got to pay attention to your health in a holistic, well-rounded way — which is why we introduced The Greenhouse at Serpentine, to offer you new pathways to good health with personalised guidance for your physical, mental, and emotional well-being.

10. Evidence builds trust

After 100 issues, perhaps the most enduring lesson is this: skin is a sensitive topic. It impacts our identity, confidence, and how we move through the world, which is precisely why we feel so passionately about supporting the work we do with scientific facts. 

The practice of evidence-based dermatology is about responsibility. We know you want so much more than clear skin; you want clarity — so in order to help you better understand your skin, we’ll continue our commitment to educating and empowering you through this space

A MESSAGE FROM DR. ABRAHAM-ALI

Janine Mendes-Franco

When we started Serpentine Dermatology’s monthly newsletter, it came from a very simple place: I wanted patients to feel informed, not overwhelmed.

Every day in clinic, I meet people who are trying their best — trying the latest trend, the loudest promise, the most convincing social media advice. But skin health shouldn’t feel confusing or intimidating; rather, it should feel grounded and empowering.

Skin education, to me, is about partnership. It’s about giving you the knowledge to understand what’s happening in your own skin, why we recommend certain treatments, and how to make choices that truly serve your long-term health. When you understand the “why,” you feel more confident — and that’s exactly why we named the newsletter Elements

Healthy skin isn’t built on one miracle product, quick fix or cure-all. It’s built on the essential elements — not just the quality ingredients that go into the products we use, but the principles of protection, consistency, evidence-based care, and understanding your unique skin biology. When that’s clear, everything else falls into place.

Your skin deserves more than hype. It deserves scientific approaches that have been studied, tested, and proven safe and effective. Trends will come and go, but sound dermatologic principles stand the test of time.

My hope has always been that Elements becomes a trusted space, where information is accurate, practical, and enlightening. One hundred issues later, we’re proud to see how many of you have equipped yourselves with the knowledge we share, and use it to advocate for your own skin health. Here's to the next 100! 

6 SUNSCREEN MISTAKES NOT TO MAKE FOR CARNIVAL

Janine Mendes-Franco

Protect yourself to like yourself

Living in the land of Carnival, sun protection should be second nature. Yet sunscreen remains one of the most misunderstood (and misused!) parts of skin care. While part of the challenge is certainly remembering to apply sunscreen, the other part of the equation is how you’re doing it, so before you hit the road, remember these rules… 

1. No matter how dark your skin is, it needs sunscreen

While darker skin contains more melanin, offering some natural protection against UVB rays, it is not immune to:

  • UVA damage (which causes premature ageing and skin cancer)

  • Hyperpigmentation

  • Melasma

  • Sun-triggered inflammatory conditions

In fact, sun damage in darker skin often shows up later, as stubborn hyperpigmentation or uneven tone that is difficult to treat. Sunscreen is essential for all skin tones.

2. Sunny or not, sunscreen is non-negotiable

In the Caribbean, UV exposure is high year-round, even on cloudy or overcast days. Up to as much as 80% of UV rays can penetrate cloud cover, which means your skin is still exposed during:

  • Overcast weather

  • Short, outdoor errands

  • Car trips or sitting near windows

Daily sunscreen use should be as routine as brushing your teeth.

3. Application matters 

Most people apply less than half the amount of sunscreen needed for proper protection. As a general guide:

  • Face and neck — 2 finger-lengths of sunscreen

  • Body — 30–35 ml (enough to fill a shot glass)

Applying too little dramatically reduces the level of protection — even if the SPF number is high.

4. Don’t rely solely on the SPF in makeup or moisturisers

While the SPF built into these products can contribute to protection, they are not sufficient on their own. Because they are usually applied too thinly to provide the stated SPF, they should be used in addition to a dedicated sunscreen. Think of them as a bonus layer — not your primary defence.

5. Remember to reapply

In tropical climates like ours, sunscreen breaks down faster due to sweat, heat, and humidity. Sunscreen should therefore be reapplied:

  • Every 2 hours when outdoors

  • Immediately after heavy sweating, swimming, or any water-based Carnival event 

Just because some sunscreens are water-resistant does not mean they are waterproof.

6. Don’t skip the sunscreen even if you have a breakout 

Many people skip sunscreen because older formulas felt greasy, clogged their pores, or caused irritation. Modern sunscreens have changed the game, offering a range of formulations to suit every skin type and condition: 

  • Lightweight gels

  • Fluid emulsions

  • Non-comedogenic formulations

  • Mineral options for sensitive skin

Believe it or not, skipping sunscreen can worsens acne, cause post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, and increase skin sensitivity over time. Of course finding the right formula matters — and we’re happy to help you with that — but skipping protection altogether causes more harm than good.

What to look for in a Carnival-friendly sunscreen

When choosing a sunscreen for two days on the road, look for:

  • Broad-spectrum (UVA and UVB protection)

  • SPF 30 or higher

  • Lightweight or gel-based textures

  • Non-comedogenic formulas

  • Water resistance

A sunscreen you’ll wear consistently is more effective than one with a higher SPF that stays on the shelf.

At Carnival, sunscreen isn’t optional — it’s foundational skin care. Using it correctly not only protects you against sunburn, it also helps prevent premature ageing, pigmentation issues, and long-term skin damage, but you have to be consistent. Even the smallest changes in how you apply sunscreen can make a significant difference to your skin’s health over time.