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WHICH FACIAL IS RIGHT FOR YOUR AGE?

Janine Mendes-Franco

Plus: skincare products suited for each decade 

Effective skincare isn’t one-size-fits-all; as cell turnover, collagen levels and the skin barrier change over time, both your products and professional treatments should evolve too.

20s / Protect and prevent

Your late teens and 20s are for establishing healthy habits and protecting the skin you have. Acne, oiliness and clogged pores may still be concerns, and you need to be serious about sun protection, which can help prevent pigmentation and premature ageing down the road.

Facials

  • Deep-cleansing or clarifying facials 

  • Gentle exfoliating treatments

  • Hydrating facials

  • Treatments specifically designed for acne-prone skin 

Products

30s / Brighten and maintain

As cell turnover and collagen production gradually begin to slow, you may start noticing fine lines, dullness or uneven pigmentation, so start becoming more intentional about prevention.

Facials

Products

40s / Renew and restore

Declining collagen and elastin become more noticeable: skin is less firm and you may have more fine lines. Years of sun exposure can also show up as dark spots and uneven skin tone.

Facials

Products

50s / Replenish and rejuvenate

Around menopause, falling oestrogen levels contribute to dryness, thinning skin, reduced elasticity and changes in collagen. 

Facials 

Products

60s / Nourish and strengthen

Skin becomes thinner and less able to retain moisture, so you need to counteract dryness, sensitivity and a weakened skin barrier.

Facials

  • Deeply hydrating, antioxidant-rich treatments, with gentle exfoliation (when appropriate)

Products

  • A gentle, non-stripping cleanser

  • A rich moisturiser 

  • Antioxidants and peptides remain useful additions

  • Retinoids might still be appropriate for some people, but frequency and strength will need to adjust, as skin generally becomes more sensitive

70s+ / Comfort and protect

At this age, skin tends to be thinner, drier and more fragile, so skincare should become increasingly gentle, with an emphasis on protecting the barrier and maintaining hydration. Keep it simple: consistency and maintaining a healthy skin barrier matter most.

Facials 

  • Soothing, moisture-rich and barrier-supporting treatments, with only gentle exfoliation that should be individually tailored rather than routine

Products

  • A  very gentle cleanser

  • A rich moisturiser or emollient that contains barrier-supporting ingredients like ceramides (hydrating serums can be layered underneath moisturiser if needed)

  • A broad-spectrum sunscreen, used daily 

Remember: the best facial — and skincare routine — isn’t simply the one recommended for your decade; it’s the one selected for your skin. Your dermatologist can help you figure out which ingredients and treatments are appropriate for you and adjust them as your skin changes over time.

HITTING BELOW THE BELT

Janine Mendes-Franco

3 conditions you need to tell your dermatologist about 

Some health concerns are easy to mention; others, not so much — particularly when they involve the genital area or sexual health. This often results in people putting off doctor’s appointments when early diagnosis really matters. 

As dermatologists, we routinely diagnose and treat conditions affecting the genital skin — they are medical conditions like any other, so there is no reason to feel embarrassed about asking for help.

Sexually transmitted infections

Syphilis is on the rise. Recently, we have seen far too many cases in sexually active young people. The symptoms, which include painless sores or rashes, can be easy to overlook. Sometimes, they disappear altogether, but the infection remains in the body. 

It is possible for the disease to be cured in its early stages, which is why early testing and intervention are key. Without treatment, syphilis can become life-threatening, causing serious damage to the nervous system, brain, eyes, heart and other organs. 

Early diagnosis of all STIs — not just syphilis — can make a real difference in outcomes. 

Lichen sclerosus

A chronic inflammatory skin condition that can affect the genital area in both women and men, lichen sclerosus can cause itching, soreness, pale or tender patches of skin, scarring, or tightening of the foreskin in men.

It’s likely caused by a combination of factors, including genetics, an overactive immune system, and even previous skin damage or irritation. It’s not contagious, nor is it spread through sexual contact, but postmenopausal women are often at higher risk for developing the condition. There’s no cure, but treatment (usually a prescription steroid ointment) can help control symptoms and reduce the significant scarring that can happen if the condition remains persistent, is poorly controlled or left untreated.

If left to advance, it’s associated with an increased risk of squamous cell carcinoma including penile cancer — but when properly monitored, becomes much more manageable.

HPV and genital warts

Human papillomavirus (HPV) is extremely common. Certain types cause genital warts, while more high-risk strains can cause cell changes that may eventually develop into cancers — most notably cervical cancer, but also anal, penile and throat cancers.

The good news is that HPV vaccination can protect against the strains responsible for the majority of HPV-related cancers and genital warts, and is most effective when given before exposure to the virus. Cervical screening remains important even for people who have been vaccinated.

If something doesn't look or feel right, talk to your dermatologist or doctor. A brief moment of discomfort in raising the subject could prevent a much more serious health problem down the road.

EVERYBODY FACES SKIN ISSUES

Janine Mendes-Franco

Here’s how we tapped into our confidence, regardless…

People may think dermatology practitioners never struggle with their skin, but nothing could be further from the truth. Being comfortable in your own skin means embracing yourself wholeheartedly, challenges and all…

Dr. Tonya on ageing gracefully

As a dermatologist, it truly means a lot when I receive compliments about the quality of my skin. It reassures me that the time, effort, and consistency I invest in looking after my skin really do pay off.

I’ve always believed in ageing naturally and gracefully. I also believe we are fortunate to live in an era where advances in skincare and aesthetic medicine allow us to age in the healthiest and most refreshed way possible. When used appropriately and under the guidance of a qualified professional, these treatments can make a remarkable difference while still allowing you to look completely like yourself.

There is something incredibly beautiful about embracing the ageing process rather than trying to erase it.
— Dr. Tonya Abraham-Ali, Dermatologist

There isn’t one magic treatment. The best results come from a combination of carefully placed wrinkle-relaxing injections, newer biostimulating injectables that support your skin’s own collagen production, a consistent skincare routine with scientifically proven active ingredients, and, above all, diligent daily sunscreen use.

These are the foundations that help keep my skin looking as healthy, strong, and vibrant as it possibly can.

Dr. Chris on overcoming acne

Throughout my teenage years, from about 14 to 17, I suffered heavily with cystic acne. After trying long courses of oral antibiotics I finally took a 9-month course of Accutane under the supervision of a dermatologist, which cleared my skin and significantly reduced the formation of new scars.

Having acne — and the way that I thought other people perceived me — had affected my confidence. Having clear, healthy skin gave me the freedom to go after what I wanted and my self-image improved.
— Dr. Christopher Ready, Aesthetic Practitioner

Despite having no new pimples, the scarring that remained did bother me and that’s why I love CO2 laser.  When done safely and on the right candidate, it can really improve the surface texture and clarity of the skin.

Robyn on her melasma journey

One of my biggest insecurities in my late teens was melasma. Starting birth control contributed to these stubborn brown patches, which really affected my confidence.

With the guidance of a dermatologist, the right skincare, and pigment-suppressing ingredients, I was able to achieve great clearance. I also became extremely strict with daily sunscreen and limiting sun exposure.

Melasma has no cure, but it can be managed.
— Robyn Stauble, Certified Medical Aesthetician

Consistent skincare, adjusting brightening ingredients over time, and choosing the right professional treatments are key. Everyone’s melasma journey is different, but thanks to the right skincare and healthy habits, I’ve been fortunate to keep mine well controlled.

Mikaili on dealing with dermatitis

For most of my life, I never truly understood what it was like to struggle with a skin condition. I was fortunate to have naturally healthy skin and could use almost any skincare product without thinking twice. Then, about a year ago, everything changed.

I developed severe perioral dermatitis along with persistent irritation throughout my body, including itching and bumps. I didn’t want to leave the house without makeup, and I found myself feeling frustrated and discouraged.

For the first time, I understood how deeply skin concerns can affect your confidence.
— Mikaili Hamel-Smith, Aesthetic Injector

Thankfully, I was surrounded by the best team at Serpentine. Working alongside our dermatologists, I was guided through a personalised treatment plan that not only cleared my skin but also helped me regain my confidence. 

Going through this experience has made me even more empathetic toward my patients. I know firsthand how overwhelming skin conditions can feel, but I also know that with the right diagnosis, treatment, and support, healing is possible. 

Amie on managing keratosis pilaris

To me, confidence comes from truly knowing yourself — from who you are to feeling comfortable in the skin you live in. I believe skincare is often overlooked when it comes to the body, which is why I feel privileged to work alongside incredible dermatologists who guide and support each person’s skin journey.

I’ve personally struggled with keratosis pilaris on my arms and legs, always chasing that smooth, buttery skin. It wasn’t until I started laser hair removal alongside consistent body exfoliation that I saw improvement.

Great skin isn’t a one-time fix, it’s something we maintain through consistency.
— Amie Forrest, Certified Medical Aesthetician

My go to treatment is laser hair removal. I’ve seen it transform not only my own skin, but the confidence of so many clients by giving women one less thing to worry about, to men who also struggle quietly. As I tell my clients, our skin is simple but incredibly smart — it’s about understanding your own.

SCULPTRA AND THE PONYTAIL LIFT

Janine Mendes-Franco

By Dr. Christopher Ready, Aesthetic Practitioner

In aesthetic medicine, some treatments offer an immediate change, while others work gradually to improve the skin from within. Sculptra works more slowly and steadily, and is one of my preferred options for patients who want natural, long-lasting rejuvenation.  

What is it? 

Sculptra is not a filler; it’s a biostimulator. We suspend it in solution and inject it as a very thin fluid into the intra-and sub-dermal planes of the face. Made from poly-L-lactic acid (PLLA for short), its goal is not simply to replace lost volume, but to encourage the skin to rebuild its own supportive structure over time through the stimulation of fibroblasts and production of collagen fibrils.

How it works

After injection, the fluid — usually 1-2 vials worth — through which the PLLA particles are delivered dissipates. Over the course of 4-12 weeks, fibroblasts become stimulated to produce new collagen. Most patients notice a soft, natural improvement in their skin over 2-6 months. The face generally appears more supported, refreshed, and youthful as collagen production increases.

Where Sculptra excels in the face

Sculptra is particularly useful for patients experiencing diffuse volume loss rather than isolated hollows. It can improve the appearance of:

  • Temples into the hairline

  • Cheeks

  • Mid-face

  • Shadows around the mouth 

  • Ear hollows and jawline

Because the results develop gradually, Sculptra is ideal for those with laxity and poor skin quality. It works to tighten and optimise the tissue envelope so that if filler used afterwards, the result is more seamless. 

Ponytail lifting

A term popularised in modern medicine by Dr. Chia Chi Kao, who developed this method of surgical facelift, aesthetic practitioners have adapted an iteration of this using a combination of biostimulators and hyaluronic acid dermal filler to change the vector of lift in the upper face.  

When conservative amounts of product are placed at the temple, into the hairline, at the preauricular shadow and above the ear, the fullness that we associate with youth is restored. New collagen fibril growth in this upward direction also produces a natural tightening of the tissues, which can lift the lateral eyebrow a few millimetres over time.  

On the face, subtlety and restraint often produce the most effective yet undetectable improvements — and when appropriately diluted, in 8 ml or more of solution, the risk of post-procedure nodules and bumps are things of the past.

Why Sculptra is so reliable

Sculptra has a long clinical history and is widely used around the world. When treatments are planned carefully, its gradual collagen-stimulating effect produces natural-looking, long-lasting results. Because it works with the body’s own regenerative processes, improvements often continue to develop well after the initial series of treatments.

Nowadays, broader use of Sculptra — and the recommendation to use it before dermal filler — represents a shift toward regenerative aesthetics and treatments that encourage the body to rebuild rather than replace what has been lost.

Outcomes in cosmetic dermatology should look towards longevity rather than quick fixes, to create an appearance which is refreshed but maintains congruence with biological age.

CAN YOUR SKIN BECOME MORE CONFIDENT?

Janine Mendes-Franco

Microneedling with growth factors boosts resilience 

As we age, our skin naturally produces less collagen and elastin, the proteins responsible for keeping it firm, smooth, and supple. Add sun exposure, environmental pollutants, everyday wear and tear, and all we can say is, “Thank goodness for microneedling!”

Combined with growth factors, this advanced treatment enhances skin’s natural repair processes, helping to restore a fresher, smoother, more radiant complexion.

How it works 

We use a specialised device with tiny needles to create controlled micro-channels in the epidermis, which signals your skin to go into repair and renew mode. It begins producing new collagen and elastin — the building blocks that give skin its strength, elasticity, and youthful appearance.

Growth factors are natural proteins that play a key role in skin repair and regeneration. Microneedling allows them to penetrate skin more effectively and support your skin’s healing response by encouraging healthy cell communication and renewal. 

Think of microneedling as preparing the soil, and growth factors as the nutrients that help healthy skin flourish.

What can it help alleviate? 

This is an excellent treatment for improving the appearance of:

  • Fine lines and wrinkles

  • Acne scars and stretch marks

  • Uneven skin texture

  • Enlarged pores

  • Mild pigmentation concerns

  • Sun-damaged skin

  • Dull or tired-looking complexions

There is usually a marked improvement in skin’s firmness and texture, as well as a healthy glow as collagen production continues post-treatment. Because microneedling stimulates a biological process, results get better and better as time passes. This gradual improvement means you end up looking naturally refreshed rather than “done”.

Microneedling is a non-invasive way to rejuvenate your skin. Although it’s suitable for many skin types and tones, we recommend an initial consultation to determine whether it’s the right choice for you.